VIEWPOINT

Unitarian Churches in Wales

by
Rev. J. Eric Jones

Not many people realise that there are 21 Unitarian Congregations in Wales. They form two District Associations, the one in the South East of the country, stretching from Cardiff to Swansea and the former coal mining areas of Aberdare and Merthyr Tydfil.The largest group of congregations is in the West of Wales (referred to as the South Wales District) in the old county of Cardiganshire - now known as Ceredigion. In this area there are thirteen chapels in close proximity to each other stretching from Llandysul to Lampeter and towards the coast at Aberaeron. This is generally referred to as “The Black Spot”. so named by the Calvinistic Methodists (modern day Presbyterians) as they were unable to establish any kind of congregation in the area. The Presbyterians do have a strong presence to the north of this area in places such as Llangeitho and Tregaron.

Geographically, they are all very close to each other and by modern day transport, the travel time from one to another can be just 5 minutes.

This is mainly an agricultural area and many of the chapel membership are farmers or farm workers or involved in some way with the farming community.Because of the close proximity of the chapels, congregations support each other in their different events and it is relatively easy to arrange an event which can bring together all the congregations.

South East Wales

Around 65 miles away from the Black Spot, there is a group of seven congregations in the old county of Glamorgan but much further from each other than the chapels in the west of Wales. District events are much more difficult to arrange in this area because of travel problems. Usually, it takes around 45 minutes to get from one chapel to another and public transport is not very helpful. Amongst this group of chapels, there are two General Baptist causes at Nottage near Porthcawl and at Wickin the Vale of Glamorgan.

Language

All services in the Black Spot are held in the Welsh Language and all their events and committees are conducted through the medium of the Welsh Language. Their financial reports and chapel newsletters are also entirely in Welsh. This is not upholding some old tradition but it is the first language of all the membership and they will communicate with each other, in business, in the market and in their leisure time using the Welsh Language.

The Group in the South East use English in services and in communication although four of the seven chapels in the area use some Welsh in their services, either by singing hymns or having a reading in Welsh. At Cardiff, there is a Welsh Language service held once every month on the second Sunday.

Some District events

The Welsh speaking congregations hold a Welsh Language Singing Festival once a year, when Unitarians gather together to sing, usually with four part harmony, under a well known conductor for the occasion. Some readers may be surprised at the ability of most of the people to read music, using the Tonic Sol-fa mode, unfortunately, not taught in schools any longer but it is not unusual for voluntary groups to run Tonic Sol-fa classes and young people are still well versed in using this medium.

There is also a smaller Festival when, traditionally, congregations came together to recite Chapters of the New Testament and then discuss the contents and the significance of the verses. This used to lead to some heated arguments among the people present in my youth. In present times, there tends to be discussion on matters that concern the people such as World Poverty, immigration, charities.

All the chapels in the Black Spot have a Communion Service, usually once every month and a great deal of importance is given to a Communion Service held at the end of the ordinary service.

Charity and Community

During the last five years or so, the young people have set out on a Charity Walk in the area, raising money for local charities as well as Unitarian causes. Large numbers of young people turn up for this event and they include people who may be young at heart as well as those young in age.

Unitarian Congregations are very much involved with local community events also. One such organisation is the Young Farmers Clubs Movement, the current County Queen being Manon Richards a young and active member at Capelygroes. The Rev Wyn Thomas is also very active in work with this movement.

The geographical closeness of the group of chapels in Ceredigion isunique among Unitarian Congregations in the UK. There are two ministers, Cen Llwyd and Wyn Thomas who are in charge of six congregations each whilst Goronwy Evans has a Part Time ministry at the Lampeter church.In many ways, members of the group of six congregations are closer together than some of our single churches in England and Scotland and membership overlaps from one chapel to another especially when we take into account the fact that there are barely two miles between the chapel buildings and that they are situated in a rural agricultural area. It makes for warmth and the larger congregations are able to support the weaker ones, if it is needed.

Burial Ground.

Another feature of the Ceredigion chapels is the fact that twelve of the thirteen congregations have a cemetery attached and burials are much more common than cremation, even today. The nearest Crematoria are in Aberystwyth, some 30 miles away or at Narberth and Llanelli which can be over 50 miles from some of the chapels. I have maintained that the Cemetery has helped to keep the membership of the chapels fairly high, as families wish to maintain contact with the family graves.

Family Loyalty.

In Glamorgan, the congregations are much more scattered and only three of the chapels have a cemetery attached.Quite often, the sense of a family connection will die out very quickly. Membership is lower and new faces appear more often. To some extent, membership in this area is confined to those who really attend with some regularity at Sunday services, whilst in West Wales, the list of members are sometime scattered far and wide, living many miles away or even abroad and so are not available to attend events regularly at their local chapel.If one counts all the local members and those who still maintain contact and contribute financially in order to keep the cause going, there must be around 2000 Unitarians attached to the chapels of the Black Spot, whereas the membership and contacts of the seven churches in South East Wales would not number more than 400 people.

Making a visit

The Black spot is quite near to some holiday resorts on the west coast of Wales. Such places as Aberaeron, New Quay, Aberystwyth and seaside villages in between, are popular as tourist attractions throughout the year. Some of our chapels are within a 20 minute drive away Why not make a tour and visit some of them when you are next in the area.

A Quick spin around

The Llandysul chapel is in the centre of the village. It will be known to everyone on the street as Graig Chapel. It is a beautiful building on the outside and in with a large hall to the right which is still used for community purposes. The present building dates from 1884.

Just a mile and a half away is the Pantydefaid Chapel. Situated at Prengwyn cross roads on the main road between Newcastle Emlyn and Lampeter on the A475.The Chapel was established in 1802 and the present building dates from 1898.Behind the pulpit there are two beautiful stained glass windows in memory of the Llanfair family.On one window there is a picture of Saint Paul and on the other the words 'Be thou faithful unto death and I will give thee the crown of life' encompassing a picture of a crown. One of the memorials on the wall refers to the Rev Jenkin Lloyd Jones who became a Unitarian Minister in Chicago. He was the uncle of the famous architect, Frank Lloyd Wright. This is one of the most beautiful chapels in the area, a square building with a gallery at the back.

Following the road from Pantydefaid on the A475 to the village of Rhydowen, turn left and come to Llwynrhydowen, just a five minute drive away.The “new” chapel was built in 1879 after the congregation was locked out of the original chapel by the local landowner after the General Election of 1868.On the left, near the entrance to the chapel, is the grave of the Rev Gwilym Marles (Rev William Thomas), who died before the new chapel was opened. The poet, Dylan Thomas (Dylan Marlais Thomas) was a great nephew. The interior of the chapel has a pipe organ which has recently been restored and was transferred from the old Bell Street Mission in London when it closed. there is a gallery at the back of the building.

Continue a drive for another 10 minutes towards New Quay and one arrives at Bwlchyfadfa Chapel on the right hand side of the road. It is surrounded by a cemetery and near the entrance to the church is the grave of the late Rev D. Jacob Davies, a former President of the General Assembly.The original ‘Meeting House’ style of chapel stands about 100 metres away and is now converted into cottages. There is a hall nearby. The present chapel is surrounded by pine trees and has been extensively renovated in 2009 with a “state of the art” toilet behind the chapel.

Make your way to the centre

Returning along the same road until you come to the A475 again, turn left and soon you will arrive at the Cwmsychbant Chapel. The present chapel was built in 1906 and is one of the most lively congregations in the area with a thriving Sunday School and boasts 10 voluntary organists from among its members. It stands in a completely rural setting, surrounded by farms.

The chapel is attractive on the inside with a small gallery at the back. Attached are two small halls used for meetings, Sunday School and social gatherings.

Continue along the A475 and turn left at Drefach and on to the village of Cwrtnewydd. Capel y Bryn Unitarian Chapel is on the left as you enter the village. The present building was built in 1881. There are farm houses in this area where Unitarian Services have been held over the years . The old village school buildings were bought by the congregation from the County Education Committee and were well used for community purposes but they have now been sold.

The present building, which has a gallery at the back, is surrounded by a cemetery with a chapel house to the right of the building.This chapel is more or less in the centre of the thirteen chapels which make up the Black Spot and. by car, even the furthest is no more than a twenty minute drive away.

Continuing along the road, if you turn right and drive up a steep hill, a country road will bring you to Capelygroes in 10 minutes. This chapel was built in 1802 on Llwyngroes land and it stands on the crossroads between Llanwnnen and Cribyn on the B4337.The 200th anniversary was celebrated in 2002. The chapel has a gallery at the back and is similar in design to Capel y Bryn and Llwynrhydowen. On the opposite side of the road is the caretaker’s Cottage and schoolroom above.

Now, a choice has to be made as to what direction to take. If you have time, take the road towards Llanybydder and cross the A475 at Llanwnnen and the next village is Alltyblaca.The Unitarian Chapel is the only place of Worship in the village of Alltyblaca on the B4337 between Llanybydder and Llanwnen and Cribyn. It was established in 1740.The present building was erected in 1837 and restored in 1892. It is built on the same pattern as Rhydygwin and Cribyn, with a gallery on three sides.

Back to Llanwnnen and to Lampeter and to Brondeifi Chapel on the road leading out to Llandovery, turning left near the food superstore. This is a beautiful building on the outside.At the entrance to the chapel is a spacious hall which has been recently built to replace a smaller schoolroom and caretaker’s cottage. The inside of the chapel is well maintained and has a pipe organ behind the pulpit.

Further away at the village of Cellan, there is Caeronnen Chapel. This chapel has a long history stretching back to the days of Oliver Cromwell and the persecutions of 1654.The present chapel is small and compact with a small gallery and a cemetery. In the cemetery is the grave of Sali Davies a Deputy Headmistress at the school in Lampeter who refused to receive her State Pension because forms were not available in Welsh.

Now back to Capelygroes

When at Capelygroes, there would have been the opportunity to turn left on the road leading back to Aberaeron. In five minutes, you come to the village of Cribyn with the Unitarian Chapel on the cross roads leading into the village. The original building dates from 1790 and the present building was erected in 1851.The original chapel was said to be built of “mud and compost, thatched with straw” and came in for some criticism as to its state when some influential visitors called in!The present chapel is a neat meeting house with a gallery on three sides and a beautiful wooden ceiling, the woodwork being carved by a local craftsman. Nearby is an upstairs hall with two cottages below, one of which is now used for smaller meetings of the chapel.

Another five minutes’ drive away is Rhydygwin chapel. The chapel is situated in rural Cardiganshire.Until recently, there were very few dwellings in the immediate area, yet the membership included many literary and cultural people in the locality.In the chapel is a Memorial to Dr. Daniel Jones who willed money for the purposes of the then Manchester College in Oxford as well as to the congregation and minister of Rhydygwin.

Finally we must seek Ciliau Aeron to complete the thirteen chapels of the Black Spot. The chapel is situated between Lampeter and Aberaeron some three quarters of a mile outside the village on the A482 and taking the road towards the village of Dihewid at the junction with the local school. The first sermon in the present chapel was delivered byCeredig Jones of Bradford in 1900 but the congregation’s history goes back to 1650.

The original chapel was situated in the building just above the present chapel - now known as Tangaer. When the new chapel was built, just before 1900, Tangaer became a caretaker’s Cottage with a schoolroom on the upper floor. This is now a private dwelling.

The Rev. Ceredig Jones of Bradford was a generous benefactor to many of the Unitarian causes in the area when they were being first built. A good collection of books relating to Unitarianism can be found in the Chapel. The view from the front entrance to the chapel must be seen in order to appreciate it fully.

When in South Wales....

Many of you will visit the Capital City of Wales in Cardiff. One of the attractions of the area is the Welsh Folk Museum at St Fagans, well worth a visit. Among the first buildings to be re-erected in the grounds is the Penrhiw Unitarian Chapel built in 1777 at Drefach Felindre in North Carmarthenshire. The building was taken apart stone by stone and transported to the Museum, where it was re built and opened in 1956. It has experienced a steady stream of visitors over the last 50 years and Unitarian still hold services there on a regular basis.

Unitarians now meet in the Friends’ Meeting House in Charles Street in the centre of the city. Charles Street also includes the Catholic Cathedral and a Welsh Congregational Chapel as well as a Marks and Spencer store. The Meeting Room holds around 40 people and the building has several meeting rooms and a well equipped kitchen. The Unitarian church which stood in West Grove was sold in 2005. West Grove dated back to 1887 and at that time it was part of the Western Union Unitarian District. The founders had close connections with the West Country and it is the earliest example of the use of Ham Hill stone from South Somerset. The Cardiff Congregation includes Unitarians who have moved to the city from various areas including the Black Spot. There is a Welsh Language Service held here once every month on the second Sunday.

Follow the A 48 towards Swansea but on the way, call in at two of our chapels.

The Unitarian and General Baptist chapel stands in the village of Wick in the Vale of Glamorgan, just off the B4265 from Bridgend to Llantwit Major and next to the village green, turning right off the main roadat the village.The chapel is small with a gallery on three sides and a small meeting room on the side. It is one of the few chapels in Glamorgan with a cemetery that is still being used.The congregation has always been small but extremely resilient. Today, property in the area is expensive as people wish to settle in the beautiful Vale of Glamorgan.

Nottage chapel on the road from the M4 to Porthcawl stands in the centre of the village and is of General Baptist origin.It is a small chapel with a gallery at the back. There is a schoolroom opposite the entrance to the church and both church and schoolroom have been renovated and tastefully decorated in 2009.

On the wall of the chapel are memorials to the Lloyd family. Evan Lloyd came from East Carmarthenshire to minister the congregation around 1806. The memorials refer to his ministry of 40 years, followed by his son Titus (1847 - 1878) and later by his son, Titus (1885 - 9).

On to Swansea

The Unitarian church in Swansea is situated in the High Street near to the junction with College Street and next door to the Argos Superstore.The congregation was gathered around 1633 and has stood on its present site for over 150 years.The building has recently been renewed after being severely damaged by fire.

There is a large hall where the worship area used to be and a smaller schoolroom upstairs.The new worship area is also upstairs and is entered either by the stairway or by lift. The church is pleasant and light and not too large. It has a long and interesting history and is possibly the oldest surviving Free Church in Swansea. It survived the bombing of the Second World War although most buildings around it were destroyed. Basil Viney was a minister here for many years and attracted large congregations.

At one time, the church supported a branch in the village of Pennard on the Gower coast. That was supported by such people as Simon Jones, Rosalind Lee and her brother E. G. Lee.

Taking a run up the Swansea Valley, through Morriston and Clydach, you come to the Gellionnen and Graig Chapels in Trebanos.

Gellionnen Chapel stands some way from the road on Gellionnen mountain, between Pontardawe and Craigcefnparc.The congregation was established in 1692 and the present building is an extension of the original and was constructed in 1801.Being in such a remote position, and with the deterioration of respect for places of worship, it has attracted a good deal of attention by vandals. In 2008 a large amount of damage was made by children who entered the building and destroyed the pulpit and a number of pews.

A great deal of support was extended to the Congregation, both locally and by the Unitarian denomination.Restoration work started in 2009 and the pulpit and frontage is completely restored.

The chapel is surrounded by a cemetery which is still used for burials.

Graig Chapeland Gellionnen belong to the same congregation. Graig chapel in Trebanos was built as a chapel of ease to Gellionnen in 1894, there having been some meetings in a nearby house from 1862.The chapel is fortunate in having one of the best organs in the Swansea Valley, built by Binns between the two World Wars.

It is built on the side of a hill and has suffered extensively from ground movement and the congregation has lost the use of a vestry and a large hall .

Further into the Valleys.

About 20 miles away from Trebanos and moving in a circle back towards Cardiff, there are two more chapel buildings.

At Aberdare, there are two Unitarian buildings, The Old Meeting House was built in 1751 and is now the property of the Welsh Chapel Trust and in the process of being renovated as a Place of Historical interest. Highland Place Church was built in 1860. The owners of the Cambrian Lampworks . Lewis N. Williams and William Thomas opened a Miners’ Lamp Factory nearby in the same year and they were the inspiration to build the first English church in Aberdare in the same year.

The church stands at the top of Monk St, the A4233 road leading from the town centre (Victoria Square) to Maerdy. In Victoria Square, there is a statue of “Caradog” the well known conductor of the South Wales Choral Union which won trophies at the Crystal Palace in 1872 and 1873. He was a faithful member of the mother church of Unitarianism in Aberdare, Hen Dy Cwrdd (The Old Meeting House 1751).

into the next valley and to the north of Merthyr is the village of Cefncoed. Hen Dy Cwrdd is in the village of Cefn Coed y Cymer. It stands in the middle of the village of Cefncoed in Old Chapel Road. Originally built in 1747, it is an offshoot of Cwmyglo (1690) which in turn is an offshoot of the conventicle established by Puritan Dissenters at Blaencanaid Farm, Penheolgerrig (c1640).

Over the years it has played a major role in the educational life of the locality with a Sunday School (c1775) and a Grammar School (1837).Unitarians were prominent in the Merthyr Riots (1831) and in the Chartist movement later. The chapel is surrounded by a cemetery which is rarely used in the present day but is well maintained. The chapel itself was extensively renovated in the nineties of the last century and is pleasing to see. The chapel was used for Singing festivals as it is surrounded by a gallery on three sides.

Unitarians in Wales have developed from different sources but by today, the congregations work together very well. Unfortunately there is no Minister in the South East Wales area but we rely a good deal on the goodwill of retired ministers, lay pastors and Lay Leaders. We operate a Pulpit Plan in the area which ensures that each congregation is served by a worship leader every Sunday and there are 21 people who make up the pool of worship leaders in the South East Wales area.

Quite often, other Unitarians refer to the Unitarian Congregations in this part of the world as being remote but from where we stand, we can refer to various parts of the country as being extremely remote from where we are.

A final note of joy

It is with great joy that we hear of the creation of a Unitarian Group in Bangor, North Wales. Its growing very quickly, with new attenders every month. If you do know of Unitarians in North Wales, maybe you can get in touch with the Rev Liz Birtles on Ynys Mon and help to swell the numbers even more.

Eric Jones

Two books which give further information on the Unitarian Congregations in Wales are “Gardens of Faith” (2006)which gives the location of old Unitarian churches and chapels in South Wales and “Good Ground”, published in Oct. 2009, giving details and location, with pictures of the 21 Places of Worship in Wales. Both books are by rev Eric Jones.Both are priced at £5.00 from 14 Clifton St., Aberdare CF44 7PB.

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